filmer, photographer, surfer tatsuo takei

Interviewed / edited by betel Nut Co.

This interview was done in 2015 when Tatsuo just released his film starring Tyler Warren called “Wet Dream” Since then Tatsuo has published a book, made even more surf films and have traveled back and forth from California and Japan. This is a long overdue interview to be published but life happens as we all know and we are grateful to even get a chance to talk with Tatsuo. His work will inspire anyone who is a true fan of classic surfing and the way he lives his life will make you want to follow your dreams as well! Thank you Tatsuo and sorry for the lateness!

1.Who are you and where are you right now?

Hello my name is Tatsuo Takei and I'm a freelance photographer from Japan.

Currently, I'm in Osaka, Japan.

2. How did you get interested in surfing? What was your first board and did you remember the feeling you got when first stood up on a board?

I saw the Hollywood movie called Big Wednesday when I was in the high school in Osaka, Japan.

Few years later, I found someone nice enough to took me to the beach and taught me how to surf.

That was early 90's. My first board was 6'2" typical tri fin short board.

That was really really cool and awesome moment.

I felt like I became one of superhero in cartoon because I thought I was frying.

And I learned the first word of STOKED!

3. What was it like growing up in Japan and the surf culture there?

I was born and grew up in small town in Osaka.

Everybody supposed to be live their life in one or two way, There are not so many options in our society.

Get a good grade in school, go to good University, get a good job, get marry , have a family,

set 35 years mortgage to pay off your new house and car and so on.

There is no time to think or search who I am or what I really want to do in my life.

People got used to live their life as passive, not active to live their own life.

Also, I've been having really hard time to find place to fit me when I was young.

Even though, there was one surf shop in my town, I didn't grew up in the surf culture at all.

I spent more time going fishing, and doing Karate practice when I was young.

I got great discipline from my Karate sensei since I was 9 years old.

4. How did you first get interested in taking photographs?

I started taking photos with a cheap snap shot camera in summer of 1989.

First trip to America, day trip to surfing, old cars, and old buildings in Osaka stuff like that.

I kept snap shooting until I got in college in California.

5. Your pictures have a classic feel to them, something that you would see in an old Surfer Magazine from the sixties. What got you interested in capturing images like these?

I met interesting surfers who riding single fin in the late 90's in California and I thought they were very

unique and everybody has individual life style. I met Joel Tudor at Cardiff Reef one afternoon in fall 1997.

He was really smooth and very graceful to watch. Seeing Joel in the water, I thought " Wow, Joel's surfing looks like 1960's. What if I shoot single fin surfing on B/W film with old camera and lens?

That must be really cool." That's how I started shooting single surfing on B/W film.

6. Film or digital? Which one would you chose and why?

I used to think film is the best way to do it for single fin surfing.

But now, digital will give me more option to shoot when the wave or whether is not good.

If conditions is perfect and there are my favorite surfers on the beach, I will definitely shoot film.

Because the film allow to me to get the real feeling of single fin surfing.

7. When did you first start going to California and how did you start documenting the surf culture there?

My first time in California experience was summer of 1993. I went summer school in Santa Barbara for 4 weeks. I went back to Japan after the summer school and started saving money to get back in real college in Southern California.

2 years later, I was accepted by Palomar College which located in San Diego.

After I finished my first Photography class(PHOTO 101) at the college, I met Joel Tudor at the Cardiff Reef.

That was perfect timing for me to see what's going to happen in Southern California.

8. I saw in a video that you spend 9 months in Japan and 3 months living in California. What do you do in that time in Japan to help raise money to live in California for the 3 years?

After that my Korduroy TV's episode, I got journalist visa form U.S government. So I switched my plan to 3 months in Japan and 9 months in California.

In order to do this, I have to sell my photographs, my idea for short films for my clients while I'm in Japan.

I shoot wedding photos and video every once in a while. I do lots of different stuff to make me come back to California every year.

9. You live in your van while you are in California, what made you want to live the Van Life? Do you think you could live the Van Life in Japan as well?

I'm a surf photographer. I need to move around wherever the waves good. I figured staying one place and paying the rent is wasting money, especially someone like me. ( Low income freelance photographer).

In order to maximize my 5 years visa, I decided I'm gonna push my self tough position so that I can be a full time surf photographer while I'm in California.

It's really really hard things to do and it's kind of shame for me to talk about my Van LIfe. But it's really worth doing it if you have something to accomplish in your life. I used to live in California for many years, so I know how it works in everyday life in here.

When I started Van LIfe, I didn't know how long I will last doing this. Southern California has very mild weather even in winter time. Now, 7 years past, I'm got used to this Van Life and I'm really enjoying this.

I don't think I can do full time Van life in the extreme weather like Japan. The the things I do in Japan is totally different than the thing I do in California.

I rent super tiny officce on the old building at the 5th floor. My office barely fits one desk and few book shelfs and I live there. The rent is super cheap and I can afford even I'm out of Japan most of the year.

10. You don’t live the normal life that typical, traditional Asian parents want their kids to live. Did you first get any negative feedback from your parents when you first started going to California? Are they supportive of the path you chose now?

My parents were totally against surfing or any of California ideas that I had in my mind.

After I finish my Photography degree in Palomar College, my parents stopped saying "Quit surfing, quit photography".

Now, they understandd that I've been dedicating my life for Surfing and Photography. I think my parents see I'm very happier than ever because I'm living the simple life.

No one told me to do this. I'm the one who decided to do this. I glad that my parents finally got why I'm keep doing this.

11. Why are you attracted to a more classic, traditional style of single-fin long boarding?

I think my first impression surfing was Big Wednesday (from Hollywood movie). My idea of surfing is just like that movie. Also, I watched the original The Endless Summer more than 100 times.

Modern tri fin surfing doesn't do anything for me at all. The single fin surfers are very interesting people and seems like they have unique point of view of surfing and life than regular tri fin surfers. And single fin surfing is really clean and simple. That's I really like about.

12. I purchased your latest film Wet Dream featuring Tyler Warren. How did you guys first meet and tell me more about the film.

Thank you very much for buying the DVD. I hope you like it. I met Tyler Warren when he was 14 years old.

Many years later, one afternoon in fall 2013, I stopped by Tyler's house to show him B/W photos and

16mm motion picture which I took in previous year. He really liked the photos and movie I showed to him

and he asked me if I'm interested in making short film about him.

In next few days, I bought bunch of super 8mm films and shoot 4 rolls Tyler's surfing and his life style.

The results was really great. So we started traveling together to Hawaii, Central America, Mainland Mexico.

In between traveling we shot locally in Southern California.

I edited 80% of movie in my van, 20% at Tyler's studio. There are tons of Tyler's surfing to see.

My favorite sections are first longboarding and Bar of Soap. It took us 12 months to make DVD.

It was the most challenging project tjat I've ever done before and I'm glad that it's over now.

The title is kinda weird and it was Tyler's idea. It’s meant to mean Tyler's surfing dream.

13. Who are some photographers that have influenced you?

For B/W picture LeRoy Glannis, for Color picture Ron Stoner.

For 16mm motion picture Bud Browne and Bruce Brown.

All California masters.

14. Who are some of the surfers that you think are shaping a path today?

All surfers who surfed back in the days.

Huge respect for George Freeth and Duke Kahamamoku. Without them we are not surfing today.

Aloha and Mahalo.

15. What is your current equipment you use for photography and filmography?

Nikon F and F3 for Camera.

Century 650 mm for beach lens.

Nikonos II with 35 mm lens for water.

Bolex H16 for 16mm.

Century 230mm and 385mm lens.

Canon 517 and 814 for super 8mm.

16. If you could have a billboard anywhere in the world, saying anything you want, where would it be and what would it say?

"Follow your dream."

17. What is your current surfboard quiver and which board have you been riding the most recently?

1966 G&S, 9'6" and 1975 G&S, 7'2" I've been riding 1966 one for last 5 years.

Best board I ever had. It's heavy but good for single fin surfing training and both fit in my van.

18. What can we expect to see from you in the future?

I will continuing back and forth California and Japan for next 2 years.

Currently, I'm working on my book project. I'd like to finish shooting in fall of 2017 and It's all about single fin surfing in Southern California from late 1997 to 2017.

19. Any last words for the Taiwanese reading this interview?

First of all, thank you very much for big and generous support when Japan had big earthquake in 2011.

I will never forget how Taiwanese people helped us.

Second, thank you for reading my article.

To accomplish my dream, I won't hesitate spending more time in uncomfortable places to live.

Surfing made me realize that life is full of fun. Photography brought me where I am now and also, van life made me humble every day.

I'm so stoked that I can live my life the way I want to.

Thank you very much.

See you in the water!

Tatsuo Takei（竹井達男）

*Note: The Book that Tatsuo mentions he has been working on is called “Authentic Wave” and can be purchased on his website: https://www.tatsuotakei.com/

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